For those who like tall, soft, elastic. The “canotto” cornice is popular in the city, in the neighbourhood pizzerias and in the trendiest new openings such as Giolina. That’s where to eat it all (even stuffed), the specialty to try and what a Margherita costs (minimum € 5.50).
There are those who reject it, thinking that it is the least good part or the most difficult to digest. Instead, the cornice is the real test of every pizza, the test bench, the difference between a good pizza maker or a mediocre one, a good dough and one only for the filling. This is true for every pizza, but even more so for pizzas in which the cornice is the protagonist.
In Naples, the cornice is part of the tradition of a certain school of pizza makers (not the only one), that prefers the pizza not very large, but with a high cornice, honeycombed thanks to the manual movements that concentrate the air out of the base and all in the edge. Today it is a trademark of many young people of the trade and of many pizzerias that have opened in the North, and that in this cornice “a canotto” demonstrate the lightness of its dough and the mastery in the process of leavening.
Like everything else in the world of pizza, the cornice also creates controversy, and the fact that the pizza with the super cornice is now identified as “the real Neapolitan pizza” infuriates many supporters of the Neapolitan pizza of those who overflow from the plate or the “wheel of a cart”, extra large.
Polemics aside, here are 8 pizzerias in Milan for lovers of canotto. Even stuffed, if you want to exaggerate!
It opened and was immediately a success, thanks to the well-kept restaurant, the bar with drinks designed by MAG, the intelligent list of natural wines, but especially the pizza. The trendiest pizzeria of the moment is made with a supercornicione, the most super of the city. And it’s so good that everyone likes it, even the Influencers on a perennial diet. Well cooked, without the elastic effect of classic Neapolitan pizza, with excellent flours and toppings selected from producers of excellence. It’s fashionable but it doesn’t mean that the food is like this, in fact the pizza amazes for quality.
Try: Quater with cream of violet aubergines, smoked provola d’agevola, cherry tomatoes from Piennolo and flakes of Parmesan cheese 42 months.
Vun (alias Margherita) at 8€
Beautiful, very nice, elegant restaurant – which does not even look like a pizzeria. Instead, the pizza is good, very good. They work with direct dough, flour with the addition of wheat germ, double leavening of 30 hours and ingredients of excellent quality. They also have a kitchen. They have a nice wine list, with a good presence of natural and French wines. In the heart of the Design District, in via Bergognone 24, area via Savona, and ready for expansion and new openings.
To try: pizza by the metre
Daisy at 7,50€
DaZero is the scene of Cilento and its products, starting with flour, a blend of flour from the mill Caputo and local flours from wheat that grow in Prevetelupo in Vallo della Lucania, ground stone. DOP oil from Cilento, tomatoes from Piennolo, San Marzano, yellow dates, packages, dried tomatoes and fresh dates, mozzarella di bufala Campana DOP and the one in mortella, wrapped in myrtle. High frame, digestible dough, one of the best in Milan (for some, the best). Pizzerias in Vallo della Lucania, Agropoli, Matera and in Milan, in via Berardino Luini 9 and via dell’Orso n. 4.
To try: Cilentana Sbagliata with fior di latte, Cilento sauce, goat and basil cacioricotta.
Margherita for 7€
Typical Neapolitan pizza, prepared with a long rising dough and very high cornice. So high that it can be stuffed with ricotta or other ingredients. They have been doing so since 2007, the formula has been tested, and the first pizzeria on the Naviglio Grande has been joined by that of Rozzano, a third in Via Conchetta and the last in Viale Umbria.
To try: the Pizza Capatosta seasoned with cherry tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella, cornicione stuffed with buffalo ricotta cheese, and covered with rocket raw.
Margherita at 6,50€
Pizza a canotto, with a pushed edge to the maximum, airy and well cooked. For lovers of the genre, Paradise in Milan. Perhaps you have seen them in the TV show “4 restaurants by Alessandro Borghese” among the gourmet pizzerias in Milan. Leavening timers that mark the hours spent by the dough before becoming pizza, and raw materials are all traced: San Marzano DOP tomatoes, Vesuvius yellow tomatoes, Piennolo tomatoes, tomatoes from Corbara, such as cheese, fior di latte from Agerola, buffalo campana DOP, Parmigiano Reggiano 36 months etc.. Two locations, one on the island in Piazzale Segrino and one in Via Raffaello Sanzio, MM Buonarroti.
To try: in addition to the classic, every month a gourmet menu with 4 creative pizzas
Daisy for 7€
In Naples since 1901, in the historical premises of Materdei, since 2012 also in America, in New York, since 2016 in Milan, and since 2018, also in Turin. Award-winning as one of the best pizzerias in Italy to interpret the true Neapolitan tradition.
To try: Marinara Starita with piennolo tomatoes, pepper and pecorino cheese.
Margherita for 7€
Luigi Capuano opened in Brera during the period of “Milano da bere”, one of the first Neapolitan pizzerias in the city. 7.0 because the “cabalistic” menu always offers 7 classic pizzas, 7 in season and 7 innovative pizzas. The menu also includes a selection of traditional dishes from Campania, mixed with wholemeal flour and gluten-free. Their
Try the Cosacca, one of the oldest pizzas in Naples, with tomato, garlic, anchovies, oregano and Roman tanned.
Margherita for 7€
Francesco Iocco, Neapolitan doc, born in 1983, opened his first restaurant in Milan in 2016. Today there are three Via Teodosio, Viale Zara and Viale Umbria and the possibility of franchising. Mother yeast, high cornice, digestible pizza, selected products for topping. In addition to pizza also the classic Neapolitan cuisine, from fried to second courses.
To try: the pizza with cornicione stuffed with sausage and friarielli or fior di latte and a pizza scostumata, heart-shaped or star.
I’ll be glad #I’ll be glad
Bioesserì is a concept, present in Milan Brera and Palermo, born from the collaboration of two Sicilians with NaturaSi, the chain of organic supermarkets. They are open in the morning for breakfast, the raw materials are all organic and natural and the pizza is proposed with four different types of dough, 72 hours of leavening and is cooked in a wood oven.
To try: La Gustosa, with mozzarella fiordilatte, fresh sheep’s milk cheese flavoured with lemon, cooked ham and extra virgin olive oil (Nocellara del Belice).